![]() |
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Gallery | Riding Areas | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Forums |
| Notices |
| General Bike Repair General questions about maintaining your bike; the basics of maintaining your motorcycle on a day-to-day basis, cleaning, adjustments, airfilters, chains, tires, etc. |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #1 (permalink) |
| Administrator | Change your fork seals Changing your fork seals is a simple and easy task that you should be completing almost annually. When you are attempting this process you will need the following tools, a 19 mm wrench, a top triple clamp, oil, and a dry drain pan. This whole procedure shouldn’t take anymore than 45 minutes to one hour. Using the top triple clamp to hold the forks in place, and tighten the fork tubes using a pinch bolt. Loosen your fork cap using your wrench, it is crucial to use a dry drain pan so that you can measure the amount of oil you will need to replace after you are finished changing your fork seals. Next you will need to loosen the lock nut just below the fork cap using your wrench. Now you will need to remove the fork cap, fork spring, and end spacer. After the fork spring is removed the cartridge will fall to the bottom of the fork. Remove your fork tubes from the clamp holder and drain the oil into the drain pan. You need to be patient with this step as your gently pump out the oil, if you rush this step you will end up with oil all over the place and no way to measure the oil. The next step in changing your fork seals is to remove the inner rod out and again pump out the excess oil left inside the tube. Now you will need to adjust the rebound damping and the compression side using a flat screwdriver. It will generally take between 20 and 25 clicks to adjust both of these sides. Now you will need to reinstall the inner rod, the fork springs (remember to include the spacers and that they are in the correct positions). You should add a dab of oil to the o ring before you screw the fork cap back on securely. Don’t forgot to replace the rubber plug and your are finished changing your fork seals. |
| | |
| Sponsored links | |
| | |
| | #3 (permalink) |
| Pro Mototips Member | invert it i think on mine there is a screw at the bottom for draining
__________________ If it does not move at first, get a bigger hammer!! MyspaceYamaha 1982 xj550 under bike lights Kawasaki klx250 1979 custom fiberglass silencer+ Honda xr200r 1985 stock = Dakaw Dk250 2008 |
| | |
| | #4 (permalink) |
| Super Moderator | your rides are too old to have inverted forks. Im going to be changing the ones in my xr out this winter, if anyone has any tips please share ![]()
__________________ "LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY, BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT, SHOUTING'...HOLY S**T... WHAT A RIDE!" this, is why I ride. |
| | |
| | #5 (permalink) |
| Pro Mototips Member | i meant to say the first post was for invert and mine are conventional
__________________ If it does not move at first, get a bigger hammer!! MyspaceYamaha 1982 xj550 under bike lights Kawasaki klx250 1979 custom fiberglass silencer+ Honda xr200r 1985 stock = Dakaw Dk250 2008 |
| | |
| | #6 (permalink) |
| Administrator | you realize with non-inverted shocks it should take you 5 minutes to replace the seals. all you have to do is remove the forks from the triple clamps and pry the dust seal and oil seal off. then put a greasy plastic bag over the end to prevent cutting the super fragile seal lips and slip them back on and put them back in the triple clamps. dont even have to drain oil.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
| | |
| | #7 (permalink) |
| Super Moderator | huh, you by oil seal you mean the fork seal? oh and im replacing it because it leaks.
__________________ "LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY, BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT, SHOUTING'...HOLY S**T... WHAT A RIDE!" this, is why I ride. |
| | |
| | #8 (permalink) |
| Administrator | right, when you a reffering to fork seals, you have 2 of them. so to differntiate between them. you have the outer seal which is called the dust seal and the inner fragile seal called the oil seal. the reason these seals are so fragile is fairly simple. when designing an oil seal, they try to make it to have the least friction on the fork tube which makes it super thin.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
| | |
| | #10 (permalink) |
| Administrator | Inverted is when the fork tube (shiny part) is the bottom half of the fork.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |