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| | #1 (permalink) |
| C Rider Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5
![]() | CRF250R Valves?? Ok. I am currently looking to buy a 250f, probably the crf250r, and was wondering if these bikes really do "eat valves." i have been saving up and just want to bet the best bike for my money. also, my riding is not to harsh, just some woods riding and track occasionally. i used to race if that has anything to do with it but i just need an answer on my main question. Thanks. ![]() |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: New Mexico
Posts: 7,655
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | if your just going to be woods riding may i suggest a wr250f. Its a great woods bike, and it handles a mx track ok, but you have to uncork it first, which takes about 15 minutes. The 04-05 where the crfs that loved vavles, in fact, honda even said you were supposed to replace the valves every 50 hours, public didnt like that so they changed it.
__________________ "LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY, BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT, SHOUTING'...HOLY S**T... WHAT A RIDE!" this, is why I ride. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Administrator | all 250f mx series bikes will go through valves fairly fast. the reason for this is the titanium valves now being put in all these bikes. my rmz's valves were gone when i got the bike and it is a 2004 and i got it a year ago. the cheapest fix to this problem is to replace the valves with a good high quality set os stainless steel valves like kibblewhite. this will end the days of shimming and the valves will last forever. granted you will gain a small amount of reciprocating weight, but its well worth it. just look at all the mods in my sig done to my bike and i still have stainless valves. just remember if you are switching from titanium to stainless you will need to get the stiffer springs to accompany the new weight of the valves. its well worth it. i rebuilt my bike last winter and havent even had to shim yet. the tolerances havent even changed! hope this helps.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: New Mexico
Posts: 7,655
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | yah, if my vavles ever die im going to kibblewhite.
__________________ "LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY, BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT, SHOUTING'...HOLY S**T... WHAT A RIDE!" this, is why I ride. |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Administrator | they are expensive but well worth it. i think i paid $220 total for double springs, valves, and titanium retainers.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Administrator | ya, its a good solid bike with plenty of power.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| C Rider Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1
![]() | CRF250R Tension Stopper The valves on my bike, 2006 CRF250R, are shot, once again. I have a guy who is willing to help me out and try to fix it ourselves, but in the Owners Manual it says something about tensioner stoppers...not sure what it is or where I can get it. Any help?? ![]() Last edited by ridered250; 10-28-2007 at 09:05 PM. |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Administrator | this is most likely referring to the cam chain tensioner. this tensioner is usually on the side of the head. it should be a spring loaded device that keeps a constant tension on your cam chain. when you take it out, you run the risk of allowing it to extend further than needed and since it locks each click it goes out when you put it back on it would be putting way too much tension on the cam chain. so when you take it out, look at it and you will understand what i am talking about. the goal is to push the foot of it back in all the way. then just put it on and it will reset. heres an article that may help a bit: http://www.mototips.com/how-tos-perf...ves-fresh.html it will explain about the timing chain alignment towards the bottom of the first article.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs-- --Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars-- --Devol Full SP With Moose HGs-- --Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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