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How-To Articles Thread, The Real Break In Procedure in Help / Advice, How-To's & Performance; Got that new piston, can’t stop bragging to your friends how much power your ...
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:47 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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The Real Break In Procedure

Got that new piston, can’t stop bragging to your friends how much power your bike is going to have? Well, this break in procedure will ensure maximum power and performance out of those new engine components.

Breaking in your engine should be done after replacing a piston, rings, anything in your reciprocating assembly such as a crankshaft or bearings, or a new cylinder. Once you have fully assembled your bike, CHECK CHECK CHECK everything to make sure you are not missing parts. Look around your work area just to make sure nothing is left. Once you are sure that every piece is back on your bike its time to get ready for the break in. Make sure your bike has a NEW filter and oil in it. Once your bike is filled with lots of fluids its time to head out. Don’t go to the track, if you can avoid it, just try to find a road where it’s legal or semi-legal to ride. You are looking for a flat stretch to ride on.

The break in procedure for 2 and 4 strokes is the same. Start it up, listen to those new engine components. Sounding pretty sweet aren’t they? Let your bike warm up slowly, no snaps of the throttle like you like to always do to warm it up, just be gentle. Once warmed up start making passes back and fourth at about ¼ throttle for about 5 minutes. It’s recommended that you let it cool, but myself and Jimmyhoffa see no real reason behind this. We understand what people think it does, but it really doesn’t do anything for you. Next start to make some ¼ to ½ throttle passes for about 10 minutes. Try to only use the throttle range specified. Once you have completed that, check everything on your bike again to make sure it is all still good. Next is what you have been waiting for ½ to full throttle passes for about 5 minutes. Listen to make sure everything sounds good during these passes. Well, here is the super secret magic break in part that really makes your bike run great. While making some ½ to full throttle passes, shift up a couple of gears to where your bike is starting to bog even at full throttle. Keep it pinned even while it is bogging and hold it until it cleans up. Do this about 15 times and you will be blowing all your buddies away with your new found compression.

Afterwards, at least thumpers change your oil and filter for sure, 2 strokers I would recommend you change your oil but it is not necessary. There you go, you’re done. Trust me this procedure works. I have used it many times, and plan on using this same procedure to break in my bike which I just spent $2200 in parts on. Ya it works and I trust it.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great article once again. Guys this is VERY important and is also recommended when you buy a brand new bike from the dealership. Thanks tig! To the front page you go
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ya, apparently a lot of people just take the bikes right from the dealer and go ride. it is the worst thing you can do to your bike. remember that any engine should be broken in, including a new car!!!
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--'03 CRF450r--
--FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle--
--Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs--
--Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars--
--Devol Full SP With Moose HGs--
--Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain--
--Now It Is The End, Probably...--

--'06 CBR F4I--
--Bone Stock--

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Old 05-23-2007, 03:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My poor car i got it brand new right off the boat. The thing had to drive over 200 miles home. At least it was all highway miles
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Old 05-23-2007, 04:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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apparently thats the worst thing you can do to a new engine. pistons get glazed a lot of the time when they are driven like that. my dad built many many racin cars back in his day and he would go up to the country on the windy, hilly roads and just punish his cars, keeping them a gear higher than they should be. sometimes he would even swap out the rear diff gears for a highway set. he knew what he was doing, his cars were amazing. he had a mach 1, wheelied in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear and there were only 4 gears. apparently he saw many people glaze thier pistons over just driving it though. i got screwed like that once though, when i had a nitro rc car. they were like we have to break it in for you for the warranty to be valid. half way through the summer compression was like zero, and thats no good on a nitro car. i broke in the next engine using the same technique i use on my bikes and it ran fine for years.
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--'03 CRF450r--
--FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle--
--Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs--
--Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars--
--Devol Full SP With Moose HGs--
--Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain--
--Now It Is The End, Probably...--

--'06 CBR F4I--
--Bone Stock--

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Old 08-19-2007, 11:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tigmaster View Post
i ¼ throttle for about 5 minutes. It’s recommended that you let it cool, but myself and Jimmyhoffa see no real reason behind this. We understand what people think it does, but it really doesn’t do anything for you.
could you please explain why its recommended that you let the bike cool off? and why you think it dosent matter?

did it work well with your bike?
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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well a lot of people believe that "heat cycling" the rings will give good seating results but if u look at the actual breakdown of metal, this does nothing for it. also lots of other people say it does nothing. really all u need to do is check it between runs for any leaks or loose bolts. yes my break-in procedure worked quite well for me.
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--'03 CRF450r--
--FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle--
--Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs--
--Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars--
--Devol Full SP With Moose HGs--
--Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain--
--Now It Is The End, Probably...--

--'06 CBR F4I--
--Bone Stock--

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Old 08-20-2007, 09:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ya did this with my wr after i rebuilt it (put 13:5 to 1 piston in it) runs like a champ!
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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well the yz will get the same treatment then. Thanks this is really helpful
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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no problem
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--'03 CRF450r--
--FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle--
--Vortex Basket With Tusk Disks And HP Springs--
--Pro Taper Triple Clamps And Bars--
--Devol Full SP With Moose HGs--
--Renthal 13/50 With R1 Chain--
--Now It Is The End, Probably...--

--'06 CBR F4I--
--Bone Stock--

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