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TRS Thompson Racing Suspension Your suspension specialist ![]() |
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| Administrator | Well, you can do everything charge it with nitrogen but it kinda sucks. Start by removing the valve stem cover and gently discharging the shock. It is pressurized to about 140psi so be careful. After discharged, place a socket over the valve stem and hit it a few times gently until the bottom of the reservoir sinks in and a circlip is exposed. You will find a circlip which you need to compress and remove. Then the bottom of the reservoir will be able to be finessed out. It takes some effort but you can get it. You may need to pry a stop ring out with a screwdriver. Remove the spring tensioning nut and locknut and whatever keepers are there holding the spring in. You can then also clamp the shock up in a vise and remove the dampening adjuster usually just with an open end wrench. Drain the oil all the while. After the spring has been removed, you will see a small hole on the aluminum end from where the shock shaft exits. You can use the hole as a spot to put a punch or screwdriver and drive this cap off the end. In there, there will be another stop ring that has to be pried out. Yes I know it sucks but its the only way. You should already have your eyes on the oil seal. Once you have the stop ring pried out you will be able to pull the full assembly out. Now I know on Showa shocks there is an O-ring that you should replace while in there. Then with the assembly out, you will see an overly excessive amount of washers(valves) that will probably make you cry because of the sheer number. Anyways, you will need to remove the nut on the end of the shaft and pull everything off to get to the oil seal which goes on last. Wow, that is just the basics and I have no real secrets for making it easier. I will move this thread to another spot so our suspension expert can have a peak at it and see if he has any more info. And then as far as assembly goes, replace the bladder(the rubber boot) and when you put it on, make sure it is smooth and not sunken in or out. Sorry I can't help more but those are the basics.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Excessive Rebuild In Process-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Administrator | Ya, just don't rely on everything to be the same, I have a Showa shock and you have Kayaba.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Excessive Rebuild In Process-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Administrator | That is good that everything is apart. Was there anything that was drastically different? Just wondering in so I know Kayaba specifics.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Excessive Rebuild In Process-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Administrator | This is very common. The nut was basically crimped on. Usually you are supposed to clean it up with a die.
__________________ --'03 CRF450r-- --FMF Pipe, Pro-Tech Revavle-- --Excessive Rebuild In Process-- --Now It Is The End, Probably...-- --'06 CBR F4I-- --Bone Stock-- |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mototips.com/trs-thompson-racing-suspension/11907-rear-shock-2001-kx-250-a.html | ||||
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| Technorati: Discussion about “rear shock on 2001 kx 250” | This thread | Refback | 03-10-2008 05:00 PM | |
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