Thread: shock oil change

rear i assume?

i thought you had to have nitrogen to do this (or to recharge it anyway)

Are you doing seals too?

If not, all you are supposed to do I thought was release nitrogen and then unscrew the entire adjuster assembly on the reservoir. Then dump out the old oil. Probably want spring off so you can pump the shock to get it all. Then fill it level with the hole and cap off. Have it filled with nitrogen and call it done.

Always a bit more but that is the basics.

i know how to do that but dont i have to bleed the shock or something? I dont want to replace the seals just the fluid. And i can alaways take it somewhere to get charged with nitrogen

Do you know how to take it apart ie: release the pressure from the bladder, remove the spring, bladder and shock shaft from the shock body?
If you know how to do that, then to bleed/refill the oil you would want to:
1. put the body upside down in a vise
2. fill the reservoir hakf way full, let the oil flow from the reservoir to the shock shaft body (be sure to have the compression settings pulled (unscrewed) all the way soft.
3. install the bladder/cap assy, making sure that the oil overflows, then install the retaining clip.
4. install the valve for the bladder.
5. fill the shock body 3/4 of the way up the body (or more, depending on how messy you want to get).
6. turn the rebound screw all the soft (out)
7. slowing slide the shock shaft into the body, you should see oil coming out of the the two holes on the shaft (above the piston, above since you have it upside down). If there isn't any oil squirting out of those holes (it's obvious since the holes - two of them, are large) then stop. Pull the shaft out turn right side up so the bottom shock mount is toward the ground, find a small screw driver about 4 inches long and slide it into the shaft, the one where the piston is, and tap lightly once you hit the bottom. You are pushing the rebound adjuster pin down, where it is supposed to be.
Do over again if the oil is not squirting out of the holes, it eventually will.
6. Once the shaft is installed into the body, move it up and down a few times , some oil may over flow; keep the piston completely submersed while doing this. Then let it sit for 10 minutes or so. You can also hit the end of the shaft (the one that staring you in the face since the other end should be submersed in oil) with a rubber hammer. This will tend to make the shims flex and hopefully get any air out of the shim stack.
7. Slide the seal head into the shock body, you may need to remove some oil to do so, tipping over the shaft is fine, you may need to release some pressure from the bladder by pushing on the valve actuator (like letting air out of your tire), to enable you to push the seal head in; install the retainer clip.
8. If you feel confident that you've done this and you have no fear of being injured, then charge with nitrogen (165psi or whatever your manual states).

I would bring the shock to someone who is experienced, this could get ugly if you do it incorrectly.

If you were to bring your shock to me or anyone else experienced, I would need to check to make sure that you had assembled it correctly, most importantly the retainer clips that hold the bladder and the shock shaft in place; otherwise if it isn't, and you attempt to charge the bladder, the shock shaft could come rocketing out of it's resting place and injure the person charging the shock or yourself, or the charger's dog.
I usually remove my pets from the garage anytime I'm in there since you never know what might happen!
No, seriously, be careful and if in doubt, take it to someone experienced.

This might be helpful:
http://www.eric-gorr.com/rear%20shock%20rebuilding.pdf